ALEiens Homebrew Club

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"Wallace" (The Weldless Brew Stand)


Okay, I tried but I couldn't come up with a name as cool as "Brutus"... This stand was inspired by Lonnie McAllister's Brutus Ten. It's just that I couldn't afford the stainless, have no desire to weld, and don't want the automation (yet). I just wanted a stand that would allow me to brew without doing too much heavy lifting.

The stand was built with perforated angle iron (McMaster-Carr calls them "steel slotted angles"). I've got a McMaster warehouse less than 5 miles from the house so I picked everything up at Will Call. Here are the McMaster part numbers (prices as of Nov. 2008)...

Qty Part# Description Price
2 each 8968K26 1-1/2" X 1-1/2", 6’ length $17.32
6 each 4664T65 2-1/4" X 1-1/2", 6’ length $66.54
16 each 4664T22 Steel Corner Plate, 6"x 6" $35.52
2 pack 4664T61 Bolts W/nuts & Washers $12.89
4 each 8789T42 400 lb. capacity caster $91.84
Total: $224.11

The frame is 54 inches long by 16-1/2 inches deep and 21 inches high. It stands 25-3/4 inches high after bolting on the casters.

The stand itself (frame & casters only - no burners, pumps, etc.) is pretty cheap... Built for less than $225 ($230 if you count the $5 metal cutting abrasive disk for my miter saw). You could probably find cheaper casters and I don't think the corner plates are even needed as this thing is rock solid. I sat 3 kegs on it... filled all to the top with water... then jumped up and stood on it... around 600lbs and good ol' Wally didn't flinch. Very sturdy.

The material chosen for the build will corrode and rust. I could try painting it with some high-temp engine paint but I'm not too concerned with it right now. The price was right and I figure it should last long enough for me to save up and buy one of those nice stainless sculptures that MoreBeer sells. If not, it won't cost too much to replace any parts that wear out. You'll notice some of the rust in the last couple of pictures posted below.

NOTE: If you're planning on building something similar, remember, you're using zinc-plated steel. When the plating gets hot it gives off some nasty fumes. Keep well ventilated. Once the plating is burned off it should be safe.

Here are some detailed pictures...










After 4 months and 5 brew sessions...


Views: 46155

Comment by Jake "Beer Boss" on September 4, 2009 at 9:05am
Brilliant idea! I wish I didn't spend my money on the Metro Shelves already otherwise I would build this. I still may go this route if the Metro Shelves don't hold up too well. This seems a lot more sturdier!

MEMBER
Comment by Eivind Sandstrand on January 11, 2010 at 9:49pm
I think Wallace may be getting a cousin this spring - Wanda The Three-Tiered
Comment by Don Gravatt on March 13, 2010 at 1:38pm
Sam, while pouring at the Philly Craft Beerfest last week a guy saw my ALEiens hoody and asked in awe if I new the guy who made Wallace.
Comment by Don Archer on January 10, 2011 at 10:11am
I'm attempting to build a "Wallace" clone, hows the original holding up?
Comment by Sam Scott on January 10, 2011 at 10:18am

Haven't brewed on it in a while but it's holding up just fine.  I'll have to update this with some new pictures as I've added another pump and some water-proof switches.

 

Comment by Don Archer on January 10, 2011 at 10:33am
Did you paint it w/ high heat BBQ paint?
Comment by Sam Scott on January 10, 2011 at 10:59am
Nope; not worth the trouble in my opinion. The burners throw off a LOT of heat and BBQ paint would just burn off after the first use. You could try high-temp (1200 F) engine paint (or take it somewhere to get it powder coated) but that's expensive and I'm still not convinced it would last. Also, galvanized steel has to be prepped for proper adherence of the paint.

Besides, what's the point? The first boil-over will make a mess of the stand anyway. ;)

Mine has a nice patina of rust and carmelized/burnt sugars on it. Perfect!
Comment by Ned Brush on January 10, 2011 at 8:57pm
I really like this design. I'm looking to build something similar and have a few questions (I'll probably have more soon!). Firstly, what is the material that you have under your cooler mash tun? Some sort of fireproof sheet? Also, are the burners turned toward the front so that you can adjust the carb? Is it something you have to constantly adjust? I was thinking I could just face the burners the other way and adjust them once when I fire them up. Thx!
Comment by Sam Scott on January 14, 2011 at 8:55am

The stuff under the cooler is just a piece of cement board (1/4" HardiBacker) to protect the plastic from the heat thrown off by the other burners.  That was temporary until I got my direct-fired mash tun built.  I've since bolted some cement board on the sides of the stand to act as a wind screen.

 

I thought I would have to adjust the carb or "air shutter" all the time but it turns out that once you find the sweet spot you never have to adjust it; I get a good blue flame at high and low and haven't made an adjustment in close to two years.  What I do adjust all the time is the needle valve to control the flame - you'll definitely want that in a convenient location.

 

Comment by Sean S on January 28, 2011 at 2:19pm
Love the stand. Just finished building one myself. I'm working on plumbing the propane and was wondering what length of propane hose you have coming off of the burners. Also, where did you purchase those. Thanks!

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